This tutorial explains how to build a PC board kit. The Noise Swash “mini” is used as an example, but the same process applies to the Phaseur Fleur, Tremulus Lune, and Stereo Panneur. The Triwave and other models are similar, but there are no board-mounted pots, and a lot more wiring.

The following PC boards are available from 4ms Pedals here:

• Noise Swash “mini”
• Phaseur Fleur
• Triwave Picogenerator (wired pots)
• Tremulus Lune
• Stereo Panneur
• Nocto Loco
• Atoner

Mouser.com and smallbearelec.com carry most components needed. Parts lists are on their respective kits page.

4ms Pedals also supplies complete kits

Drill your box using your pc board’s layout file as a template. Placement of holes for board-mounted pots/switches is critical.

Alternatively, drilled boxes are available for all kits from 4ms Pedals.

Start with the PC Board. Add the IC sockets first, and solder.

Add the resistors and diodes. Note: diodes must be orientated so that the dark band on the diode matches the line at the tip of the arrow on the board

Add all remaining components. Note: The 1uF, 10uF and 100uF blue cylinder capacitors (aka electrolytics) must be orientated so that the positive lead goes in the square hole. The positive lead is longer than the negative, and the negative is marked with a black strip down the body of the cap.

Completed solderside

Remove all nuts and washers from all controls and jacks.

Snip or bend the anti-rotation tabs from the pots (unless your box has these small holes drilled already)

Note: if your model doesn’t have any PC mounted parts, just mount the controls directly to the box and skip ahead to wiring (e.g. Triwave, or a home-made board)

Mount the big pots, flip switches, and LED(s) to the PC board. Do not solder yet! Put a cardboard strip between pots and the board so they don’t short the board out. Make sure the long lead of the LED(s) goes in the square hole.

You may need to bend the leads on pots and LED(s) so they don’t fall out while you mount to the box. The flip switches can be held in place by putting a piece of wire through one or two of the holes in their tabs.

Hint: Flip switches often need a nut under the box, and a nut and washer over the box

Side view of mounted board. Note the space between pots and board, and cardboard to prevent shorts.

Wiggle the controls through the holes in the box. Start with pots and switches, and lastly push the LED up so it lines up to the LED clip (Don’t snap it in yet).

Inside view

Tighten down the nuts on pots and flip switches. Now it’s time to solder the pots and switches.

Next, Pop the LED into its clip and solder it. hint: double-check the LED isn’t backwards. If in doubt, you can wait until powering the unit up to solder the LED

Mount the remaining controls (stomp switch, jacks, off-board pots, etc.)

Wire all off-board pots (if any). Follow the wiring diagram for your kit.

(Note: the photo shows the wiring for an earlier version of the mini swash pcb. The latest version (1.3.1) is the same except the Low Power pot is wired to the center and outside holes on the pcb. See the mini swash wiring diagram 1.3.1)

Wire the bypass stomp

Wire the power supply. Some kits have the voltage regulator built into the board (phaseur, triwave, nocto, atoner, tremulus, panneur).

Put on the knobs and you’re done!